Rock Climbing on the French Riviera
The multi-sport paradise
I placed this article about my home region in the Climbing section to showcase a few of its crags, but I could just as easily have classified it under trail running, mountaineering, skiing, or water sports… For athletes, the French Riviera is a unique playground. While it might not be the single “best spot in the world” for one specific sport, it certainly becomes one when it comes to multi-sport variety.
Regarding endurance sports, the Alpes-Maritimes is a premier playground for world-class events, most notably hosting the UTMB Nice Côte d’Azur for trail runners and the legendary Ironman France Nice, which now shares the rotation for the Ironman World Championship. The region also attracts thousands of athletes for the Nice-Cannes Marathon, one of the fastest and most scenic coastal road races in the world.
The name “Alpes-Maritimes” is no coincidence: several peaks exceed 3,000 meters, and 80% of the territory is classified as a mountain zone—covering 3,400 km², half of which lies within the Mercantour National Park. The department boasts 6,500 km of waymarked trails, including the famous GR5, GR52, and Via Alpina routes. This provides endless space for trail running, skiing, mountain biking, mountaineering, and canyoning.
For rock climbing, the French Riviera offers a selection of superb crags, a few of which are presented here. If you expand the scope to the entire Alpes-Maritimes department, there are nearly 90 crags and over 3,000 routes available to you. With a Mediterranean climate that allows for year-round climbing, the region truly deserves to be a top choice for several climbing trips.
A Rich Vertical History
Climbing in the Alpes-Maritimes began in the 1940s at Saint-Jeannet, the region’s historic birthplace. Initially a training ground for alpinists, this high limestone cliff soon became a destination for pure rock climbing.
In the 1980s, the focus shifted to the coast. La Turbie, overlooking Monaco, became a global laboratory for the “free climbing” revolution. Technical slabs and breathtaking exposure attracted world-class climbers, including the legendary Patrick Berhault.
From the 1990s onwards, the region entered a new era with the development of the Gorges du Loup. Sectors like Déversé became famous for their athletic, overhanging tufas, pushing climbing into the 9th grade.
While the department’s major crags are widely known, the development of new sectors continues, driven by a very active community of climbers.
Déversé
A short selection of crags
Here is a short selection of great crags: Déversé – Mesa Verde – Peillon – Castillon – Chou Chou – Aiglun
Déversé, Gorges du Loup
Déversé, also known as Pupuce Surplomb (named after an old aid climbing route), is the most challenging sector in the Gorges du Loup in terms of pure difficulty. The first line to be freed was Déversé Satanique, opened by Bernard Duterte in the mid-80s. Now graded 8a+ “soft,” it remains a legendary and fantastic climb.
Déversé offers over 50 routes graded 8a (5.13b) and above, including three 9a (5.14d) test-pieces: KinematiX (FA by Andreas Bindhammer), Abyss (opened and FA by Alex Chabot), and PuntX (opened by Cédric Lo Piccolo and FA by Alex Chabot).
This is primarily a summer crag. Conditions remain pleasant even when temperatures hit 30°C on the Riviera, thanks to the deep shade and a constant light breeze.
Information
Location: Located on the East side of the Gorges du Loup, approximately a 45-minute drive from Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France.
Road Access: From Nice, follow road D2210 or D6 toward Pont du Loup. Continue on the D6 (Route des Gorges) toward Gréolières. The access is immediately after the first tunnel.
GPS: 43.73875, 7.00043
Approach: A 5-minute walk. From the road, walk up the road for 100m (passing under an overhanging wall), then take the first steep trail on the right and follow it to the crag.
Best Season: From May to October. It is one of the few crags in the region that remains cool during summer. It is in the shade until noon and after 6 PM. The cliff is extremely overhanging and well-sheltered from rain; however, after heavy rainfall, water can pour from the top onto the routes for several days.
Routes: 65 routes ranging from 6a to 9a, with over 50 routes graded 8a and above. The climbing is mostly overhanging and athletic, featuring tufas, pockets, and many reinforced or chipped holds.
Selected Routes
- 7: Ligne Noire (7a), Satan Petit Cœur (7b), Mekanik (7c).
Note: Avoid the routes to the left of “7pm JP Show”. - 8a: Pas Vu Pas Pris (R2), Once I Had a Friend (R3), Sika (R1), Vigor, La Ligne Noire (R2), Cascade.
- 8a+: Déversé Satanique, Dies Irae, Qoussaï, Super Tango (R1), Pas Vu Pas Pris (R3).
- 8b: Soul Sacrifice.
- 8b+: Hot Chili Beans Volcano, Karoshi.
Mesa Verde
Mesa Verde, Gorges du Loup
Mesa Verde is the “little sister” of Déversé, featuring around thirty high-quality routes. This pleasant sector is set in a peaceful location right by the Loup river. It is climbable from spring to autumn; the cliff catches the sun for a short part of the morning, while the base of the routes remains in the shade.
The climbing style is mainly power-endurance-oriented (résistance) on slightly overhanging or vertical walls.
Information
Location: West side of the Gorges du Loup, upstream from the village of Pont du Loup, Alpes-Maritimes, France.
Road Access: Approximately 45 minutes from Nice. Take the D2210 or D6 to Pont du Loup. Several parking areas are available within the village.
Approach: A 20-minute walk. From the village, pass under the confectionery (Confiserie Florian) and follow the trail along the left bank of the river. After about 20 minutes, cross the river via the green footbridge; the crag is directly in front of you.
GPS: 43.72933, 6.99592
Best Season: From May to October. During summer, the cliff moves into the shade at noon.
Routes: 31 routes ranging from 6c to 8a+. The style is mostly vertical to slightly overhanging, with a few steeper lines. Routes are between 20m and 40m long.
Bolting: Good, reliable bolting throughout the sector.
Selected Routes
- 6: Willy Wanca (6c+), Contrat Premier Envol (6c).
- 7: Pas de Bras Pas de Chocolat (7a), De la Terre au Ciel (7b), Ma Vie en l’Air (7a+ R1), Castel Rock (7a+), Les Niçois Font du Ski (7c R1), Pizza Party (7c), Petit Poucet (7c+).
- 8: Les Niçois Font du Ski (7c+/8a, 35m), Arrow Head (8a) — an outstanding route.
Peillon
Peillon
Peillon Cave is one of the most beautiful sites in the region, both for the quality of its routes and its stunning setting. It is climbable almost year-round, with the exception of July and August.
The routes to the right of La violence et le sacre stay in the sun all day, while the routes inside the cave move into the shade by mid-morning. Overall, the climbing is athletic and endurance-based (conti), featuring many tufas (colonnettes).
Information
Location: 1.6 km before the village of Peille, approximately 30 minutes from Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France.
Road Access: Via the A8 motorway (exit La Turbie) or roads D45 / D2564. From La Turbie, take the D53 toward Peille. Pass through “Les Lacs” and “La Parran.” Exactly 1.6 km before Peille, at the Col de St-Pancrace, turn left onto a dirt track and follow it for 200m to a large parking area.
GPS: 43.62614, 7.39894
Warning: Accessing the cave from the village of Peillon is strictly prohibited.
Approach: A 35-minute walk. From the parking area, take the path heading south along a fence. The trail climbs toward the Cime de Rastel, bypassing it on the left. 300m past the summit, take the left-hand path descending between the Paul Arène sector and the Cave. Finally, turn right for 300m.
GPS: 43.78353, 7.39083
Best Season: Climbable year-round, though spring and autumn are the most pleasant. Routes inside the cave move into the shade in the late morning, while the routes on the right stay in the sun until very late.
Routes: 38 routes ranging from 6b to 8c. Bring an 80m rope. The climbing is generally very overhanging with numerous tufas.
Bolting: The routes are primarily equipped with 12mm bolts.
Selected Routes
- 6: Goupil (6c) ***, Mathilde (6b+) *.
- 7: Cent Milles Pattes (7a+) **, Captain Cavern (7a+) ***, Coup de Foudre (7b+) **, La Femme Adultère (7b+/7c) **, Paret (7c+) ***, Inaal Ding Dingue Dong (7c+) **, Batman (7c+) **, Le Corbeau (7c+) ***.
- 8: Y’a Pas d’Arrangement (8a, finish via Paret) ***, À l’Envers à l’Endroit (8a+) *** — an exceptional 90-move line, Saharagga (8a+) **, Tout Reste à Faire (8a+) ***, À Bout de Souffle (8b) ***, Le Souffle du Ragga (8b+) ***.
Castillon
Castillon
Castillon is the ultimate winter crag. It can get so warm that climbing is often only possible from November to March. The site is divided into two main areas: Traduction and Arcade. Arcade is the historic heart of the cliff and arguably the best sector.
The routes offer a variety of styles and are generally of very high quality. The left side is steeply overhanging (45°) and highly power-endurance based, while the right side offers more diverse climbing styles.
The first routes were established by Axel Franco and Philippe Maurel. Later, Pascal Clémenti signed a formal agreement (convention) with the FFME and the local mayor, allowing him and me to continue developing and bolting new lines.
Information
Location: Near the village of Castillon, approximately 45 minutes from Nice, toward Sospel.
Road Access: The parking area is located in a sharp hairpin curve, 1.5 km before reaching Castillon when driving toward Sospel.
GPS: 43.82850, 7.48131
Approach: A 20-minute walk. From the parking area, follow the trail that begins under the Caramel Bridge (Viaduc du Caramel). The Traduction sector becomes visible from the trail after a 10-minute walk. Continue for another 10 minutes to reach the Arcade sector.
GPS: 43.82600, 7.48444
Best Season: The ultimate winter crag. It is often too hot to climb outside the period from November to March.
Routes: 55 routes ranging from 6b to 8c+. The styles vary from technical vertical walls to extreme 45° overhangs.
Bolting: Well-equipped, following modern standards under the local FFME convention.
Selected Routes
- 6: Phantasmagoria (6c+), Dernière Croisade (6c), Tomb Raider (6b+), Time Crisis (6c+).
- 7: Fatal Fury (7a+), Star Gladiator (7b+), L’OV (7c), Lost Eden (7c), Doom (7c+), Mortal Kombat (7c+ R1), Empire du Milieu (7c+).
- 8: La Niaque (8a), Trace Directe (8a), Full Empire (8a), Succès Fou (8a), Final Fantasy (8a+), Barjoland (8b), Mortal Kombat (8b R2), Ultimate Doom (8b+).
Chou Chou Place
Chouchou Place, Gréolières
Chouchou Place is a charming little sector in Gréolières, set in a highly scenic and pleasant location. It offers 35 routes ranging from 6b to 8a, established by Stéphane Benoist and Bruno Montanarini.
The climbing style is primarily technical and endurance-based. Despite its 900-meter elevation, the south-facing cliff remains very warm, making it a perfect spot for winter climbing.
The routes are very well bolted; however, please note that the rock requires caution in certain areas.
Information
Location / Access: Please refer to the L’escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes guidebook for detailed maps and directions.
Best Season: Winter. The cliff is south-facing and gets very warm in the sun; however, it can become quite cold when it is cloudy or windy due to the elevation.
Routes: 35 routes ranging from 6b to 8a. The climbing primarily features crimps on long, technical vertical or slightly overhanging walls.
Bolting: Excellent bolting. Anchors are equipped with double bolts and chains.
The Routes
- ? (6c+) ***. 37m / 18 quickdraws. Loose rock at the beginning then nice endurance route.
- L1 (6c+) **, technical and sustained. L2 (7a+) *, bouldery, easier for tall people.
- Arc de Pierre (6b) **, nicer than it looks, 10 quickdraws.
- Croissant Brioche (6b+) *, technical slab.
- ? (6a) ***.
- Pollux Aujourd’hui (6b) **.
- M’en Bati (6c+) *.
- Lou Soleu Me Fa Canta (6b+) *.
- Haut Les Pieds (7a) *.
- Traversée du Désert (6c+) *.
- Par Où T’es Entré (7b) * (starts in 12, ends in 7), interesting start then confusing route.
- Enfermé Dehors (7a+) ***, amazing route, sustained.
- Mission Impossible (8a) *. Loose holds at the beginning then nice climb when reaching Chouchou.
- Chouchou Place (7c) ***, bouldery crux then easier end.
- ? (7c+) ***, fantastic climb, a bit reachy.
- Pince Moi Fort Mon Petit (8a) *, bouldery.
- Les Éléphants du PS Sont Vraiment Pauvres (6c) ***.
- Le Mystère de la Chambre d’Hôtel (6c+) ***, amazing route.
- Mi Fa Cagua le Mt Blanc (6c) **, technical.
- Tata Rosette : Le Retour (6c) *** (starts in 19, ends in 23).
- Un Guide Dans les Étoiles (7c/+) ***, two power-endurance sections with a no-hands rest in the middle.
- Lévitation Digitale (7c+). Haven’t tried it yet.
- BSN Perd Toujours (6c+) ***, bouldery crux.
- La Passion ne se Dissout Pas (6b+) **, first bolts of 23, then cross right and up.
- Quand Mowgli et Balou ne Sont Pas Là, Baghera Équipe (7a) * (starts in 23 and ends right of 26), rope drag.
- ? (7c+). Haven’t tried it yet.
- Cho, Très Cho, Carbo ! (7b+) **, hard for the grade. Power-endurance then full rest and technical finish.
Aiglun
The Giet Cliff, Aiglun
Giet Cliff & Paroi Dérobée
The Giet Cliff at Mont St Martin, near the village of Aiglun, is arguably the finest multi-pitch destination on the French Riviera. It features thirty routes, ranging from 200m to 300m in height, offering a variety of styles: from modern sport climbing and traditional “adventure” routes to technical aid climbing.
Nearby lies another legendary wall: the Paroi Dérobée (also known as Fumée Blanche). It offers world-class multi-pitch lines such as Ali Baba (250m: 8a, 8a, 7b+, 8a, 8a, 8a+, 8a, 7b+) or Les 40 Voleurs (330m: 7c, 7b+, 7c, 7a, 8a+, 7c+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 6b).
While climbing is possible year-round, the south-facing exposure makes the cliff extremely hot during the summer months.
Information
Location: Left side of the Estéron river, at the end of the Aiglun canyon, approximately 1h15 drive from Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France.
Road Access: Take road D17 through the Estéron valley, passing Gilette and Roquestéron. Just before Sigale, turn left onto the D10 toward the village of Aiglun. Park at the far end of the village.
GPS: 43.85806, 6.91487
Approach: A 25-minute walk. Take the small trail starting 100m after the parking area, heading directly toward the cliff.
Best Season: Spring and Autumn are ideal. While climbing is possible year-round, summer requires an early start to avoid the heat. In winter, always bring a headlamp, as the routes are long and daylight is limited.
Routes: Around 30 multi-pitch routes graded from TD to ABO. Routes range from 100m to 300m in height. You will find all styles: steep walls, slabs, dihedrals, overhangs, and tufas.
Bolting: Varies by route. Some are fully bolted; others are traditional routes requiring cams, nuts, and pitons.
Guidebook: L’escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes by Jean-Claude Raibaud.
Selected Multi-Pitch Routes
- L’Artisan du Huitième Jour (EX, 250m): A modern classic, fully bolted. Pitches: 7b/c, 6b, 7b+, 7b, 6c+, 6b+, 6c+, 7a+, 7a+, 3.
- Croquignol et Sword Fish Trombones (EX-, 300m): Long and varied climbing. Pitches: 7a, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 7a, 7a, 7a+, 3, 7c, 6b+, 6a+, 6b+, 7b.
- Goutte à Goutte (TD+, 210m): Aesthetic and more accessible. Pitches: 6b, 6b, 5, 5+, 6a, 6b+, 6a.
- Chevreuils du Calendal (TD, 220m): A great introduction to Aiglun’s big wall climbing. Pitches: 5+, 6a, 5+, 5, 5+, 5+, 6a+, 4+, 5+.
Anna, Castillon
Information
Accommodation Strategies for Climbing
The French Riviera offers everything from rustic campsites to luxury rentals, but for climbers, location is everything. Traffic congestion is a major factor that can significantly impact your climbing day.
Choosing the right base camp is the most critical logistical decision for any climbing trip to the French Riviera. The region’s geography and high traffic density—especially around Nice and the A8 motorway—can easily turn a 20-minute drive into an hour-long ordeal.
Eastern Sectors: Castillon and Peillon
You should base yourself east of Nice to avoid the massive commuter flow coming from the west.
- The Inland Option (Sospel & Peille): Staying in Sospel is the most strategic choice for Castillon (15 min drive). It offers a peaceful mountain atmosphere and completely bypasses coastal congestion. Peille is equally ideal for those focusing on the Peillon Cave.
- The Strategic Hub (La Turbie): Perched on the “Grande Corniche,” La Turbie is the historic heart of the local climbing scene. It sits between both sectors, offering a 15-20 minute drive to Peillon and 25 minutes to Castillon, while staying high above the lower coastal traffic.
- The Coastal Option (Menton): If you prefer staying by the sea in winter, Menton is the best choice. Driving from Menton toward the mountains moves you away from the heavy traffic heading toward Monaco and Nice.
Central & High Valleys: Gorges du Loup and Gréolières
For sectors in Gorges du Loup and Chouchou Place, you should stay in the “Moyen Pays” (mid-country) to ensure a short commute.
- Vence & Loup Valley: Staying in Vence, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, or Le Bar-sur-Loup is the best option. These locations place you within 10 to 20 minutes of most Gorges du Loup sectors.
- High Altitude Base (Gréolières): For those climbing at Chouchou Place during spring or autumn, staying in the village of Gréolières (at 900m) offers a refreshing climate and immediate proximity to the crag.
- Logistical Advice: Avoid staying in coastal cities like Cagnes-sur-Mer or Antibes for these sectors. The daily drive up into the Gorges involves navigating saturated intersections and school-run traffic.
The “Climb & Swim” Strategy: Gorges du Loup & River Pools
In the warmer months, when you want to combine the world-class climbing of the Gorges du Loup with a swim, the best strategy is to stay close to the water without leaving the valley.
- The Freshwater Alternative: The most efficient “climb and swim” combo doesn’t involve the sea. The Loup and Estéron rivers feature crystal-clear turquoise pools (vasques) right at the base of the mountains. Staying in the valley allows for a refreshing dip immediately after your session with zero travel time and no traffic jams.
- Managing the Coast: If you must stay near the Mediterranean beaches (such as Villeneuve-Loubet or Antibes), you must be disciplined. To avoid being stuck in traffic, ensure you leave for the Gorges before 7:30 AM.
- Post-Climb Return: Returning from the mountains to the coast after 4:30 PM will almost always involve significant delays. Planning your swim in the river first and heading to the coast later in the evening is often a better tactical move.
Getting Around: Flights and Car Rentals
Arrival by Air: The Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) is the most convenient entry point. It is located directly on the coast, offering the quickest access to the mountain roads leading to the crags.
Car Rentals: A rental car is essential for any climbing trip in this region. Most major agencies operate out of the airport’s Car Rental Center. We recommend booking a compact or mid-sized vehicle, as mountain roads are often narrow and parking spaces at trailheads can be limited.
Public Transport: While the coastal train and bus network is excellent for sightseeing, it is not practical for reaching climbing sectors. Most crags are located in remote areas with no direct shuttle service, making a private vehicle the only reliable way to transport gear and reach the trailheads.
Climate and Seasons in the Alpes-Maritimes
The Nice region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with over 300 days of sunshine per year. Because the mountains rise so steeply from the sea, you can often find perfect climbing conditions somewhere in the department, regardless of the month.
- Winter: Crisp and clear. Ideal for south-facing “sun traps” like Castillon or Chouchou Place.
- Spring: Excellent temperatures but the highest chance of occasional rain showers. Great for high-friction technical climbing.
- Summer: Hot and sunny. Climbing is best limited to deep shaded gorges (Loup), high altitudes, or “river-side” sectors.
- Autumn: Very stable and pleasant. Dry air and mild temperatures make this a favorite for most climbers.
