From Wadi Rum to Petra
The Road to Petra
The Wadi Rum Race is a 250km endurance event that traverses the historic landscapes of southern Jordan. Organized by RacingThePlanet, the course connects four distinct deserts—Wadi Rum, Kharaza, Humaima, and Wadi Araba—before concluding at the Treasury in the ancient city of Petra.
The format follows the stage-race structure common to events such as the Marathon des Sables. Competitors face six stages over seven days. The physical demand is consistent: the itinerary includes four marathon-distance stages on the first four days, followed by a stage of 87km, a rest day, and a final 7km sprint to the finish line.
As a self-supported race, the logistical challenge is as notable as the running itself. While the organizers provide water and shared tents at the nightly bivouacs, all other equipment must be carried. This includes a sleeping bag, mandatory safety equipment, medical supplies, and food for the week. The rules mandate a minimum of 14,000 calories for the duration, though many runners choose to carry more to sustain the effort.
The terrain in Jordan offers a variety of surfaces. Runners navigate a mix of dirt roads, riverbeds, canyons, and stretches of sand. While daytime temperatures are generally lower than in the Sahara, making the running manageable, the nights in the desert can be cold, requiring careful thermal management at camp.
This race held a different context for me compared to previous events. I arrived at the check-in in Petra already carrying the fatigue of a busy year, having completed the Great Himalaya Trail and a trail running expedition in Patagonia just a month prior. The preparation phase involved the briefing and equipment checks in Petra before transferring to the first camp in the Wadi Rum desert. Despite the fatigue, the motivation remained high—for the landscape, the community, and the experience of sharing the desert with friends.
The race
February 15: Briefing and Transfer to Wadi Rum
On a cold and rainy Saturday morning, the race began in Petra, the ancient Nabatean city carved into sandstone. A group of 185 competitors from 35 different countries gathered for the transfer. The journey to the first bivouac involved a 2.5-hour bus ride followed by a short Jeep transfer into the Wadi Rum Protected Area, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its sandstone mountains and red dunes.
The desert appeared different than usual. The typically arid landscape was darkened by rain, which had entered the open-sided Bedouin tents at Camp 1. With sleeping bags damp from the moisture, the first night was uncomfortable before the running had even begun.
Stage 1: “Lawrence’s Playground” – 39.7km
The first stage, named after T.E. Lawrence who traversed these valleys during the Arab Revolt, covered nearly 40km through the heart of Wadi Rum. The night prior had been difficult; the constant rain and wet sleeping bags made rest difficult due to the dampness.
Despite the cloudy weather, the conditions offered a tactical trade-off. While uncomfortable, the rain packed down the sand, creating a firmer surface for running. Furthermore, the 10°C temperature was less physically taxing than the typical 45°C desert heat.
I started the stage well, managing to run the first 20km at a steady pace. However, the fatigue from the previous month’s expeditions eventually set in. Experiencing leg pain, I was forced to slow my pace, eventually finishing in the low thirties.
The rain persisted throughout the afternoon, complicating camp life. The wet Bedouin tents offered little respite, and the environment was filled with damp clothes and gear. To manage the cold, competitors huddled around campfires, trying to dry out and stay warm for the night ahead.
Stage 2: “Wadi Rum Rock Formations” – 36.6km
After a difficult night in the damp conditions, the sun returned, revealing the extent of the Wadi Rum rock formations. The clear weather provided the opportunity to see the sandstone landscapes that define this region.
The stage was physically demanding. My legs remained painful, a consequence of the 2,000 kilometers of running I had completed over the previous four months. With an expedition to Makalu scheduled for the following month, my priority shifted from speed to preservation. I focused on managing the effort to avoid injury that could affect the upcoming expedition. Despite the physical discomfort, the improvement in weather and the surroundings kept morale high.
Stage 3: “Camel Racing in Twaissah” – 37.2km
This stage marked a transition in the landscape. The first 20 kilometers remained within the notable terrain of Wadi Rum. The route began in a narrow canyon that required technical scrambling to navigate. Immediately after exiting the canyon sections, we encountered a camel giving birth directly on the trail—an unusual event in this environment.
The terrain then opened into a 10-kilometer stretch of orange sand, flanked by high cliffs. As the course progressed, we crossed a dry salt lake and exited the Wadi Rum Protected Area to enter the Kharaza Desert. While the scenery in this section was flatter than the morning’s canyons, the day concluded with a clear sunset over the camp.
Stage 4: “The Rock Bridge” – 39.3km
The fourth stage brought a change in the environment. As we moved further into the landscape, the temperature rose, creating a desert atmosphere compared to the cooler preceding days. The route featured the well-known Rock Bridge, a natural sandstone arch that serves as a landmark in the region.
The leg pain returned after only 8 kilometers. Unable to increase the pace, I relied on music to manage the discomfort and focused on the scenery. It was a day of patience, managing the heat and the terrain to ensure I remained fit for the long stage the next day.
Stage 5: “The Long March on the Turkish Road” – 86.3km
The “Long March” was the major stage of the event. This 86.3km stage started at 8:00 am with 182 competitors. The atmosphere at the start was a mix of focus and anticipation. The organization’s daily newsletter mentioned that my priorities were clear: while others discussed strategy, I was inquiring about the food available at the finish—a sign that my appetite remained intact.
The weather was sunny and hotter than previous days. Logistics were important for the first section; we descended into the Wadi Ahaimer Canyon, a 20km stretch where no water was provided at the first checkpoint, requiring us to carry a heavier load from the start. Fortunately, the canyon was narrow and shady, providing protection from the sun, although the terrain was technical.
My strategy was conservative. I started slowly, checking in 45th at the first checkpoint. The leg pain that had affected me earlier decreased. Feeling capable and without blisters, I increased the pace during the hottest section of the canyon and the subsequent riverbed, passing about twenty runners. The route continued through canyons and rocky ground before a steep 710m climb in the heat leading to the Old Turkish Road.
As night fell, the dynamic changed. I ran 20 kilometers alongside the leading woman, maintaining a steady rhythm in the darkness. I ran the entire distance, passing another twenty competitors in the final hours. I crossed the finish line in 13th position with a time of just over twelve hours. It was a favorable day where the effort followed the plan.
My friend Alex arrived ten minutes later. We shared a cold dinner before resting in a partially exposed tent. It was windy and cold, and despite the exhaustion, I had little sleep—a common reaction after a long race, caused by tired muscles and metabolic fatigue.
Rest day
The day following the Long March was dedicated to recovery. After the effort of the previous twenty-four hours, the camp adopted a slower rhythm. We spent the day resting in the tents, eating our remaining rations, and talking with friends. It was a necessary pause and a moment of rest before the final stage leading to Petra.
Stage 6: “The Final Footsteps to Ancient Petra” – 5.6km
The final day was different from the rest of the week; it was a short, untimed stage designed to let competitors experience the surroundings without pressure. We covered the final 5.6km at a relaxed pace, moving from the open terrain into the complex landscape of Petra.
After winding through the rock formations that guard the site, the route funneled into the Siq, the narrow gorge that serves as the ancient entrance to the city. Running between these high vertical walls, which block out much of the sunlight, led to the conclusion of the race. The gorge ends by opening onto the main square, revealing the Treasury (Al-Khazneh) carved into the sandstone cliff. Crossing the finish line in front of this monument marked the end of the 250km journey across Jordan.
Information
The Environment: Wadi Rum and Petra
Southern Jordan offers a scenic landscape for ultra-running. The Wadi Rum Protected Area, often called the Valley of the Moon, is a UNESCO World Heritage site characterized by large sandstone and granite formations rising vertically from red sand valleys. Geologically, it is a maze of narrow canyons, natural arches, and plains that shift in color from ochre to red depending on the sun’s angle.
The race connects this wilderness with Petra, the ancient Nabatean city carved into rock, adding a historical dimension to the physical challenge. Climatically, this region is a land of extremes. While daytime temperatures in February are generally mild and suitable for running (15°C to 20°C), the nights are notably cold, often dropping near freezing. This thermal amplitude is an important factor; the same landscape that attracts tourists becomes a challenging environment that requires proper thermal management once the sun goes down.
Race Organization and Gear Strategy
The race follows a self-supported format. The organization provides water at checkpoints and shared tents at the nightly bivouacs, but competitors must carry everything else for the week. Managing pack weight is the primary strategic challenge.
Based on my setup for this race, the gear was optimized to remain light to accommodate the weight of the food:
- Pack and Safety (900g): I used a Hyperlight 37L backpack. The mandatory safety kit includes a headlamp, compass, signaling mirror, survival bivy bag, and a rain poncho.
- Nutrition (4.4kg): This is the heaviest component of the pack. While the race rules require a minimum of 14,000 calories (2,000/day), I opted for a total of roughly 21,000 calories to sustain the effort, supplemented by electrolytes and vitamins.
- Sleeping System (1.9kg): To manage the cold nights, I carried a lightweight down sleeping bag, a sleeping mat, and warm camp clothes including powerstretch tights, gloves, and a hat.
- Running Gear (600g): The running kit was minimal, consisting of a mesh cap, shorts, and a long-sleeve zip top. For footwear, I used trail running shoes fitted with gaiters to prevent sand from entering.
