Climbing in the heart of the Peloponnese
Leonidio & Kyparissi History
In just a decade, Leonidio and Kyparissi have realized their incredible potential, joining the ranks of Europe’s premier climbing destinations. Much like in Kalymnos, climbing has successfully integrated with traditional activities—here, farming and livestock herding—while preserving the region’s authentic charm and identity.
In terms of climbing, the quality and diversity are exceptional, with several sectors quickly becoming world-class essentials. When you combine this with easy access, an ideal climate, a wide range of accommodation options, and impeccable bolting, you have the perfect climbing destination.
The history of climbing in Kyparissi is a bit more recent; the first routes were established by Greek climbers at Watermill and by French climbers at Babala. Today, there are over 400 routes in Kyparissi, and the potential for new developments remains considerable.
Climbing Styles and Grades
The ever-growing number of climbers visiting Leonidio and Kyparissi is no surprise. In just a decade, the number of routes has exploded, reaching 2,000 today. Much like in Kalymnos, you can find every type of profile—slabs, vertical walls, overhangs, and caves—and every climbing style: technical, powerful, bouldery, or endurance-based. The rock is generally exceptional, ranging from compact grey limestone to orange walls with the iconic tufas and blobs.
Regarding grades, there is something for everyone, with approximately 40% of routes in the 6s and 35% in the 7s. This considerable volume of mid-to-high grade routes allows climbers to find lines at their level across various crags and in many different styles.
For fans of hard climbing, the flagship destination is Babala, an overhanging cliff with exceptional features: over 140 routes, including 70 in the 8s and five in the 9s. The majority of the routes are 30 meters long, with the longest pitches reaching up to 50 meters.
Leonidio Climbing Trips
Our first trip to Leonidio was complicated, to say the least. What was fabulous was that many sectors had only recently been bolted; the rock was pristine, and there were very few people. Unfortunately, it was April after a particularly rainy winter, and nearly every cliff was soaking wet. Not a single route at Elona was dry, so we mostly climbed at H.A.D.A., Mars, and Theos Cave.
This taught us to be cautious with spring climbing trips: while temperatures can be mild, certain cliffs—especially those with tufas—can suffer from seepage for quite some time.
Our second trip took place during… the lockdown. I must admit, being “stuck” in Kyparissi with about a dozen other French climbers wasn’t the most unpleasant experience! Our subsequent trips were much more conventional, and just like with Kalymnos, one is rarely disappointed by a trip to Leonidio and Kyparissi.
Where to climb in Leonidio & Kyparissi?
There are nearly 70 crags between Leonidio and Kyparissi, which is truly exceptional. Beyond just the variety of climbing styles, they offer vastly different rock types and profiles.
These cliffs are spread across a wide area, ranging from the coast to deep inland. Some are right by the beach, like Vlychada, others overlook the sea, such as Hideout or Miti, while others are located further inland—some even reaching altitudes of 800 meters, like Nifada.
This variety allows you to choose your crag based on the season and the weather. In a single day, you could be roasting at Twin Cave while freezing at Nifada; similarly, you might climb shirtless at Watermill but need a down jacket and a beanie at Babala.
When staying in Leonidio, most crags are within a 30-minute drive, with an additional 15 minutes if you are staying down by the beach.
Beyond the Classics: Finding the Best Routes
When people talk about Leonidio, names like Mars, Twin Cave, Elona, H.A.D.A., Jupiter, Theos, and Sabaton immediately come to mind. For Kyparissi, it’s Watermill, Hideout, and Babala. These crags are indeed exceptional, and quite uniquely, some are so high in quality that nearly every single route is worth doing—I’m thinking specifically of Mars, Jupiter, or Hideout.
The issue is that out of nearly 70 crags, these few are always saturated. Many classic lines have become so polished and caked in chalk that they offer little enjoyment, not to mention the struggle of finding a window to climb them.
Meanwhile, other cliffs remain almost deserted despite offering superb routes on pristine rock. This highlights the dilemma of “star ratings” in guidebooks or the most popular routes on online platforms. I am the first to admit guilt: when I don’t know an area, I head for these rated routes to avoid climbing a “dud.” Unfortunately, this only worsens the problem, and we often miss out on beautiful, wilder lines. One shouldn’t hesitate to get off the beaten track, ask locals for advice, or use rest days to scout other cliffs and see what they have to offer.
Bolting and Rebolting
The bolting and maintenance of the routes are the result of a shared effort by numerous passionate climbers (the Rémy brothers, Aris Theodoropoulos, and many others), associations like Panjika, clubs such as A.O.S. and FFCAM, and finally, the local authorities (the Municipality of South Kynouria and the town of Leonidio).
Their ongoing commitment includes both developing new sectors and replacing defective bolts or anchors.
300 finest routes in Greece
Kalymnos, Leonidio, Kyparissi, and Manikia
Anna and I are currently completing a book on the 300 finest routes in Greece (in French). It covers the four major destinations: Kalymnos, Leonidio, Kyparissi, and Manikia.
Out of the 7,000 routes equipped across these four exceptional sites, we have climbed 1,200 of them—ranging from 6a to 8b—and have ultimately selected the best 300 for this book.
The selection process was challenging and based on specific criteria: the widest possible variety of crags and climbing styles; the quality of the lines and their equipment; a balanced spread of grades from 6a to 8b; a mix of recent sectors and great classics; a sufficient number of interesting routes per crag; and a preference for sectors that are not overcrowded or overly polished.
The first part of the book provides comprehensive information on trip planning: transport, climate, seasons, gear, and an introduction to physical preparation and energy management.
The guide is organized into four comprehensive sections: Kalymnos, Leonidio, Kyparissi, and Manikia—covering a total of 300 routes across 35 crags. For every selected crag, a dedicated chapter provides essential details such as orientation, sun exposure, and climbing style. Particular attention is paid to access, providing GPS coordinates for parking and the cliffs, as well as descriptions, duration, and elevation gain for the approaches.
Each sector presents a selection of the finest routes, ranked by difficulty and accompanied by personal commentary. Finally, we offer suggestions for combining sectors or activities.
The Leonidio section of the book covers 13 crags and 119 routes, while the Kyparissi section includes 4 crags and 28 routes.
Publication scheduled for early March.
Leonidio & Kyparissi Information
Recommended Periods
Leonidio enjoys a warm, dry Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and very hot summers. The predominantly south and southwest orientation of the cliffs, combined with the maritime influence, creates ideal conditions for climbing much of the year—provided you choose the right season and sectors. Spring and autumn are by far the best periods to climb in Leonidio.
Kyparissi is only 25 km away as the crow flies, but the climate is slightly different with a more pronounced maritime influence. It is generally cooler, with slightly higher humidity and less daily temperature variation.
Getting to Leonidio
For travelers flying from Europe, the most efficient route is to fly into Athens International Airport (ATH) and rent a car. The drive to Leonidio takes approximately 3 to 3.5 hours.
Reaching Kyparissi from Leonidio
The drive from Leonidio to Kyparissi takes about 1.5 to 2 hours and is one of the most beautiful in Greece. The route climbs through mountain passes and snakes along the coastline. Be aware that the road is narrow and remote; it is crucial to refuel in Leonidio before departing, as there are no gas stations in Kyparissi.
Accommodation in Leonidio
The town of Leonidio offers a diverse range of accommodation, from traditional family-run studios and apartments to renovated stone houses, charming guesthouses, and hotels.
For a more peaceful experience, Plaka and Poulithra offer seaside studios, along with a selection of hotels and boutique accommodations. While staying in Poulithra adds about ten minutes to the drive to the crags, you can easily find a place to stay within 100 meters of the beach. The village features several very pleasant restaurants and maintains a remarkably quiet atmosphere.
Accommodation in Kyparissi
The village offers a small selection of accommodation, primarily traditional studios, small family-run seaside hotels, and a very nice boutique hotel. While the village is walkable, a vehicle is essential for reaching the remote sectors.
Dining & Greek Cuisine
One of the greatest rewards after a long day on the limestone is the local dining experience. Leonidio is an agricultural hub, famous throughout Greece for its Tsakonian eggplants (melitzana). This sweet, thin-skinned variety is the pride of the valley, and you will find it featured in numerous local dishes, from traditional moussaka to sautéed eggplant with feta.
The town offers a wonderful mix of traditional tavernas and grill houses. In the town center, you can enjoy hearty meals such as kleftiko or fresh Greek salads. If you prefer seafood, a short drive to the port of Plaka or Poulithra allows you to dine right by the water, where the “catch of the day” is served fresh from the Myrtoan Sea.
For those who prefer a quiet evening at their accommodation, several local eateries offer home delivery. You can easily have fresh pizzas, gyros, or souvlaki delivered directly to your studio or apartment—a perfect option for those evenings when your legs are too tired to walk back into town. Don’t forget to visit the local bakeries in the morning for fresh spanakopita (spinach pie), which makes for the perfect lunch at the crag.
Dining in Kyparissi is an intimate and authentic experience, centered around a handful of traditional tavernas and seaside eateries. The focus here is on simple, high-quality ingredients: fresh fish caught in the bay, local wild greens (horta), and mountain-raised meats.
Supplies & Services
Leonidio is a well-equipped town that provides everything a climber might need for a long stay. For daily groceries, you will find several supermarkets along the main street, as well as local fruit and vegetable shops offering fresh regional produce. Once a week, a local market takes place in the town center, which is the best place to buy honey, olives, and seasonal vegetables directly from the farmers.
Beyond food, the town is home to a dedicated climbing shop where you can purchase gear, chalk, and the latest guidebooks. For health and logistics, there are several pharmacies, a medical center, and multiple ATMs located near the main square. If you need to refuel or clean your rental car, gas stations are conveniently located at the entrance of the town. This self-sufficiency makes Leonidio an easy and comfortable base camp for the climbing community.
Unlike Leonidio, Kyparissi is more remote, so planning ahead is essential. The village has a few small grocery stores (mini-markets) that provide basic essentials, fresh bread, and local products. While you can find most daily necessities, the selection is more limited than in larger towns, so it is a good idea to stock up before leaving Leonidio. There is no gas station in Kyparissi.
